Timeline

Key figures

Origin and history

The Cité internationale de la dentelle et de la mode (CIDM) is a museum opened on 11 June 2009 in Calais, in a former tooth factory, the Boulart factory, founded around 1870 and active until 2000. This industrial site, bought by the city in 1988, symbolizes the golden age of calaisian mechanical lace, a major activity since the arrival of the first Leavers trade in 1816. The factory's U-architecture, designed to optimize production, reflects the organization of 19th century work, with courtyards and a central courtyard facilitating logistics.

The museum traces the evolution of lace, from craft techniques (XVI century) to the industrial revolution, highlighting the key role of Calais, the world's leading place in lace in the 20th century. The collections include 15,000 to 20,000 pieces of lace, 3,220 garments and accessories (1850 to present), and 500,000 samples in the tissue library. The permanent exhibition also explores the links between lace and fashion, with demonstrations of Leavers still in operation.

The Boulart factory, renovated by architects Henri Rivière and Alain Moatti, combines heritage and modernity: a contemporary extension in glass, screenprinted with Jacquard motifs, dialogue with the original yellow bricks. The project (€27 million) has also integrated a training centre to perpetuate know-how. Since 2015, Calais-Caudry lace is being recognized as Protected Geographical Indication (PGI), carried by eight local companies.

CIDM offers prestigious temporary exhibitions, such as those dedicated to Balenciaga (2015), Hubert de Givenchy (2017, 30,000 visitors), or Yves Saint Laurent (2023). These events highlight the lasting influence of lace in haute couture. The museum, labeled Musée de France, also offers an auditorium, a restaurant, and a documentation centre, making it a major cultural and professional centre.

The museum journey is divided into five sections: lace history (manual and mechanical), manufacturing process, urban impact in Calais, use in contemporary fashion, and temporary exhibitions. An ephemeral work by Maria Dompé (2009), requiring 80 km of lace, marked the opening. Today, CIDM remains a key player in preserving and innovation in the textile world.

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